HPI Savage X SS 4.6, Duratrax Warhead EVO and Traxxas Revo 3.3 Hop Ups, Tricks, Tips, and Parts Reviews

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My email address is: NitroWarhead@hotmail.com

cya!
ash

Thanks Mr. Bill for your contributions - you’re a real help to all of us…heck, you practially taught me all I know about RC!

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Back in 1968…here’s a pic of Bill:

So, you’ve got your HPI Savage X or Duratrax Warhead tricked out to the max, and you’re looking for that one last part to top it off? Tuned Pipes are designed to get the maximum performance out of any engine you have installed in your nitro truck. WORKS Tuned Pipes, for instance, are designed with the correct shape for a no hassle installation, and the proper chamber length for optimal horsepower and RPM.

Fantom pipes, for instance, are not mass produced with robot welders, but are hand made by a professional pipe builder with years of experience in building motorcycle pipes for some of the top motocross racers.

These pipes are made out of steel. Why? First, steel resonates better than aluminum, which makes the pressure pulses in the pipe stronger, providing for a better “supercharging” effect of the gases being forced back into the combustion chamber. Next, and most important, steel holds the heat in a pipe better than aluminum does. A hotter pipe is more effective in the scavenging process that a 2-cycle engine goes through, or in simple terms, a hotter pipe helps an engine burn fuel more efficiently, ultimately providing you with more horsepower and better fuel mileage. This is the reason carbon fiber pipes have never worked; they just don’t get hot enough, as carbon fiber is not a good heat insulator. Another example of steel pipes being used in 2-cycle applications is in motorcycle racing. Factory motocross teams have access to any material they want, including carbon fiber and aluminum, but they always use steel, because it is the best material for making 2-cycle engine pipes. Finally, a steel pipe flat out sounds better than an aluminum pipe. They are more “throaty” and raspier, not to mention their unique factory look and durability sets them apart from all other pipes. If you are concerned about the weight, these pipes only weigh fractions more than their aluminum counterparts, and in testing, no disadvantages were found using a steel pipe versus an aluminum one.

More Features of a Steel Performance Tuned Pipe:

Designed and tuned for off-road racing
Single chamber design maximizes engine’s TORQUE/RPM potential
“Throaty” racing tone
Hand-built steel

Here’s the steel, ribbed pipe that I’m using on my Duratrax Warhead to get better LOW end:

Looking for Duratrax Warhead Hop-Ups HopUps? They don’t exist LOL . Currently, there are no aftermarket parts that I can find - you’ll have to modify the truck on your own using your own talent and creativity.

If you KNOW of any aftermarket parts that are of any use for the Duratrax Warhead, please comment and share that information.

It helps to have a local hardware store nearby too hehe

The Hop Up Parts that Duratrax needs to come out with for the Warhead are:

:) Stronger Servo Savers!
:) Stronger Aluminum Bulkhead
:) Better CV Joint Pins!
:) 3 Shoe, 3 Pin, clutch setup as STANDARD and not as an option that you have to buy!
:) Better Pull Start
:) Correctly sealed motor: primarily at the carburetor base, the banjo, and the head shims

3 Shoe, 3 Pin Clutch Setup for the Duratrax Warhead (With the Stock Super Tigre .27 Motor):

Here are the Parts You’ll need:

Ofna Aluminum Clutch Shoes Blue CNC (3)

Ofna Clutch Bell Kit

Ofna Clutch Nut w/Screw Ultra GTP

Ofna Flywheel 3-Pin Ultra GTP

Optional Clutch Bells Include:

Ofna Hardened Clutch Bell 16T

Ofna Hardened Clutch Bell 18T

If a sampling of the tire/wheel weight is of any indication, YES, the savage X is indeed lighter than the Duratrax Warhead by almost 3 ounces per tire! I’m sure there are some exact specs out there on the dimensions, and I would post them if anyone has them (comment on this post if you know the weights of either truck).

The Duratrax Warhead Tire/Wheel:

The HPI Savage X Tire/Wheel:

What tires and wheels are YOU using on your truck? Please Comment with links to the tires/wheels, and hubs if needed…

To “prime” the motor on a cold start, simply remove the pressure line from the exhaust pipe and blow on it. The pressure will build and run down the fuel line into the carb. This, to me, is WAY easier than cranking the motor over to prime.

Anything wrong with that? Comment if you think so…

To stop your nitro fuel burning motor, pinch the fuel line as close to the carb as possible. The rpm’s should increase slightly for a moment (not too long), then decrease and cut off the motor. I always look for it to cut off anywhere within a 3-6 second time frame.

Anything wrong with that? Comment if you think so…

Don’t use a hair dryer to heat up the nitro motor, you’ll electricute yourself LOL - no, seriously, I have no idea if this works consistently or not as I am in a fair climate and I rarely see snow . I have, however, used aluminum foil around the head to get the temps up.

Any success with a hair dryer in cold climate? Comment if you think so…